The fragrance of a cosmetic product is one of the essential elements of its “pleasure” dimension, it even constitutes an important criterion of choice for many consumers, greatly influencing the purchasing decision. The choice of the fragrance that your product will leave on the skin of your customers is therefore strategic. Choosing between the different fragrance options made available by the cosmetics industry can be difficult, this article is a short guide:

Whether they are of natural or synthetic origin, the perfumes used in cosmetic products contain hundreds of olfactory molecules that are hidden in the INCI lists under the following terms: AROMA, PERFUME, FRAGRANCE, FLAVOUR.

Synthetic olfactory molecules offer a wide choice of scents: all combinations are possible; floral, woody, fruity… More possibilities for top, middle and base notes. They are also less volatile and therefore remain fixed longer on the skin. However, synthetic perfumes, by definition obtained only by chemical means, are not harmless. Synthetic musks have been proven to concentrate in the tissues and interfere with our hormonal system. Synthetic perfumes contain phthalates whose purpose is to fix the scent and lengthen its persistence, we do not yet know all their disadvantages, some of these compounds (DBP and DEHP) are recognized as being able to alter fertility for example.

The natural perfume used in natural cosmetics is, unlike synthetic perfumes, only from the plant kingdom. It comes from essential oils, fractions of essential oils or molecules extracted from the complex structure of essential oils. The manipulation of these olfactory elements is a complex process.

It is a mixture of natural aromatic substances on a support of natural origin (lipophilic support). Natural aromatic substances can be essential oils, fractions or isolates of essential oils (compounds obtained by fractional distillation of essential oils) or substances obtained from vegetable raw materials by ecological processes such as fermentation or distillation. 

Less complex and refined than the synthetic molecules used in perfumery, natural fragrances are fresh, soft and light, and bring a gourmet touch to cosmetics.

Natural perfumery has fewer ingredients than classic perfumery, for example: to compose a natural fragrance, you have about 300 ingredients, compared to nearly 3,000 ingredients (natural or chemical) in classic perfumery. This is the particularity of the rigorous process that leads to their manufacture.

Above all, natural olfactory molecules have the advantage of being fresh and gentle on the skin: they are free of heavy metals or chemical solvents. For this reason, these fragrances are perfect to incorporate into the formulations of your natural cosmetic products (skin or hair care).

The only disadvantage is that they are however still very volatile: used in a shower gel or a body cream, they do not stay long on the skin.

Fragrance allergens are molecules naturally present in fragrancing substances and which can cause allergic reactions in people who are sensitive to them.

Brands have the obligation to mention the presence of perfume allergens on the packaging to reassure people who do not support them, but they are not dangerous for non-allergic people. The risks associated with perfume allergens are risks of irritation or allergies only for people sensitive to these substances: redness, itching…

In order to ensure the safety of all users of the cosmetic product, the use of hypoallergenic fragrances is recommended. These fragrances are dosed correctly and avoid allergenic components in their compositions.

Not all fragrances are suitable for lip products. A FEMA GRAS fragrance has no food toxicity if it accidentally comes into contact with food, which is why these fragrances are the most suitable for balms and lipsticks.

The FEMA GRAS label guarantees that the fragrance complies with the legislation for perfumes and aromas, and that it guarantees non-toxicity on a human level and respects the code of good conduct of the IFRA (International Fragrance Association).

Better known under its brand name LILIAL, BMHCA is a frequent fragrant substance in perfumes and cosmetics, it is precious for its fresh and rosy floral notes reminiscent of lily of the valley or hyacinth.

It is also a contact allergen, identifiable in cosmetic products under its INCI name: butylphenyl methylpropional. Long suspected of being carcinogenic, BMHCA was officially classified as CMR 1B in May 2020, which launched the European procedure for its ban in cosmetics.

Need help formulating your cosmetics? Or advice on the fragrances to incorporate into your formulations? Prodigia offers you both and many more services: Bulk Sale, White Label, Legal Support, and International Shipment. Contact us!