Exfoliation is a crucial step in any skin type’s skin care routine. Today, there are different formulations of exfoliators on the market, each with its benefits and disadvantages. Exfoliants can be divided into two categories: that of mechanical exfoliants (scrubs) and that of so-called “chemical” exfoliants based on fruit acids. Don’t worry, the “chemical” name does them no justice, and fruit acids are not only natural derivatives but they have also shown their benefits on the skin.
In this category of exfoliants based on fruit acids, we find the names AHA, BHA or PHA. They have been particularly all the rage in recent years and are well anchored in current market trends. What are the particularities of fruit acid-based exfoliants? What are the benefits? And for which skin types? Are they preferable to mechanical exfoliants?
What are the different active ingredients of fruit acid-based exfoliants? Which benefits for which skin types?
AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acid): These correspond in particular to glycolic, lactic, tartaric, malic and mandelic acids. Those that are most often found on the market are glycolic acids and lactic acids.
The case of glycolic acid: In Europe, the maximum authorized percentage of glycolic acid in a formula is 4%. In Canada, the limit is set at 10% with an obligation to mention possible side effects on the label. Depending on the concentration, the product may be indicated for occasional use, for example 2 or 3 times a week for a 4% concentration.
Discover Prodigia’s newest Natural Acid Based AHA face serum that allows an immediate deep exfoliation and smoothens the skin.
BHA (Acid Beta Hydroxy): It corresponds to salicylic acid. Unlike AHAs, BHA is oil soluble. Its action takes place on the surface of the skin, but also inside the pores. This makes it perfect for targeting clogged and enlarged pores.
BHA is generally recommended for combination and oily skin with a tendency to imperfections. This is why BHA is often found in ranges for “young skin” under its name “salicylic acid”. It reduces pigmentation, wrinkles, and improves the texture of the skin.
Less irritating than AHAs and thanks to its anti-inflammatory action, it is also recommended for sensitive skin.
PHA (Poly Hydroxy Acids): They correspond in particular to lactobionic acid, galactose or gluconic acid. PHAs are characterized by a high molecular weight. These penetrate less deeply into the epidermis and are milder than AHAs and BHAs.
They have a powerful firming and anti-aging action. And because they are much less irritating, they are recommended for skin affected by skin diseases such as eczema, rosacea or dryness. They may also be suitable for sensitive skin that does not tolerate AHAs and BHAs well.
Mechanical exfoliants and fruit acid-based exfoliants, what are the differences?
The goal of mechanical exfoliants and exfoliants based on fruit acids remains the same: to eliminate dead cells, and to activate skin renewal. Only the process differs:
-The exfoliation based on fruit acids is chemical, that is to say that they are active ingredients that penetrate deep into the skin to eliminate dead cells, without the need to “rub” the skin. The action of fruit acids is autonomous, which is why they inherit the name “chemical exfoliants” although they are of natural origin.
-Mechanical exfoliation is commonly referred to as “a scrub”. A scrub is very often composed of more or less thick “grains” which will exfoliate by the action of friction against the skin.
For example, the mechanical action can be ensured by the fine-grained sugar crystals as in this Sugar Scrub that Prodigia offers. The small diameter of the fine-grained crystals as well as their smooth edges will ensure gentle exfoliation that is gentle on the skin. This mechanical power of exfoliation can be combined with the antioxidant and softening active ingredients of poppy powder to gently exfoliate and eliminate dead cells and toxins, while providing an immediate healthy glow effect, in the Poppy Powder Exfoliating Face Mask.
The choice of the type of exfoliation depends on the philosophy of the brand as well as the chosen target; mechanical exfoliation takes place during the cleansing and peeling step of the skin, while chemical exfoliation can take the form of lotion, serum, or mask. The choice also depends on the type of skin. The project to integrate an exfoliating range must take all these parameters into consideration in order to offer the ideal formula to its range.
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